By Gea van der Horst, 30 March 2025
Tongariro Northern Circuit
Kia ora from the heart of New Zealand’s North Island!
They say, “One does not simply walk into Mordor,” but we did it!
Mount Ngauruhoe, better known as Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings. The area in the movie is called Mordor, and believe me, it was absolutely amazing.
We set off on Sunday morning at 9:30 a.m. and got in the car for a 4.5-hour drive toward Whakapapa, with a short stop in Ohakune. Once at Whakapapa, we parked the car and started our three-day hike.
On the first day, we walked about four hours to Mangatepopo Hut. There, we found a cozy spot, cooked some food, and played a game of Dutch Blitz. In the evening, we were treated to a breathtaking starry sky.
The next morning, we started relaxed on the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This is a popular day hike and also part of the Northern Circuit. It involved a lot of climbing. Every time you thought you had reached the top, there was another stretch uphill. I even encouraged people by saying they were “almost there,” while we ourselves weren’t even halfway yet.
We had made a little ring out of a twig, and when we got close to Mount Doom, we threw it into a crater. We destroyed the one true ring! And yes, for a brief moment, we felt like real hobbits.
The landscape is truly breathtaking. It is so unique that it is almost impossible to capture in photos. Rugged volcanoes, deep craters, and at the Red Crater, you could even see an old magma chamber. Then came the brightly colored Emerald Lakes. Stunning to look at, but swimming is not allowed due to the high acidity and mineral content.
At one point, the trail split. Day hikers went one way, and we, the Northern Circuit hikers, went the other toward Oturere Hut. That day, we walked about five hours. Near the hut, there was a waterfall where we could dip our feet. Some even put on swimsuits for a refreshing plunge. The water was cold, but it felt amazing after a long day of hiking.
On the third day, we started early because it was the longest day, about eight hours of walking. The sun was shining, and there was hardly any wind. At the end, we passed Taranaki Falls, where we all walked under the waterfall for one last refreshment. Around 4:30 p.m., we arrived back in Whakapapa.
Afterwards, we enjoyed the hot pools, ate a delicious pizza, and finally got back in the car to drive home.
And the weather? Barely any rain, mostly sun with occasional clouds. Perfect for this trek. Along the way, we passed through so many different landscapes: sandy plains, rocky fields, dense forests, and a dazzling palette of stones. From black to red, yellow, purple, pink… it felt like walking on another planet. It was otherworldly.
So if you ever find yourself in New Zealand, the Northern Circuit is absolutely worth it. I enjoyed it immensely. The landscapes were stunning, and the atmosphere was super fun and friendly.
Wishing you another great day from Wellington!