By Robyn Surcombe, 25 November 2025
Our four-woman expedition set off from Wānaka on the morning of the 25th November, headed for Raspberry Flats Carpark in Mt. Aspiring National Park. Due to booked-out huts and a less-than-ideal weather forecast, now Plan C (or maybe D?) comprised of spending one night at French Ridge Hut. Having spoken with DOC that morning, we expected the weather to be fine on the walk in, windy and rainy overnight and the next morning, with a clear window for a walk-out at midday. Chloe, Chloe, Hazel, and I arrived at Aspiring Hut for lunch, with 5km still to walk along the valley before reaching the 1000m climb up to French Ridge. At the hut, we met an Australian couple. I'm sure they were well intentioned, although we probably could have done without their marginally condescending questions ("Did you bring rain jackets? Did you know you need to book the huts? Have you checked the weather forecast?"). My confidence was slightly knocked by the mild interrogation of our preparedness, but I was reassured having indeed checked the forecast, run the plans by DOC, and being well provisioned.
We filled our brilliant array of Nalgenes in the blue-est, clearest, freshest river water, before reaching the rocky and rooty bush scramble. We made good time, and the excitement of the hands-on haul up the valley wall distracted from our wearying legs. Just before reaching the bushline, we came across three guys who told us that they had intended to reach the hut, but had just turned back due to strong cross winds, and sheer drop, and getting the "heebee-jeebies". Knowing that the "heebee-jeebies" are not a thing to be taken lightly, I worried that we might not reach the hut, and would have to reverse the steep ascent and 15km walk that we had completed. We pushed on above the bushline to find not even a breath of crosswind, and eventually made it to the hut.
Inside, we cracked open the wine and began to prepare a well-deserved pasta meal. At 19:30, the weather forecast was radioed up to the hut, and we joined our fellow hut-stayers to listen. "Wednesday 26th November, Mt. Aspiring: 145km/h gusts, heavy and persistent rain..." with conditions worsening until Friday. Although this was technically the forecast for the peak, this was NOT what we wanted to hear, and certaintly not what we'd expected from the morning's forecast and our discussion with DOC... But it is important not to underestimate the changeability of New Zealand's weather. I won't lie, this concerned me. To reach the sheltered bushline, we would need to walk 1km along a pretty exposed ridge. No amount of red wine was going to completely soothe my apprehension about what tomorrow would bring. Later, as we settled into our sleeping bags, the wind and rain began to all but tear the hut off the mountainside. It sounded like a high-speed train, and I think I barely slept an hour. The next morning, we listened to the forecast again. It was no better, and there was no mention of a clear window that afternoon. We tucked into our (now rationed) porridge, looking over our 2-days-1-night food supply, imagining how we might stretch that over 3 days of severe gusts and rain. I felt anxious about making the call of whether to stay in the hut, or brave that first kilometer in those conditions. I've never had a gut feeling stronger than the one that was telling me to stay inside. Even going out to the toilet, not 20m away, was a terrifying prospect. At midday, we gathered with another group to radio down for a weather update. "If you want to leave the hut today, it's now, or you will be there until Friday (3 days away)." We were told that we had only a few hours before the wind would pick up again, so we made the decision to pack our things and assemble at the entrance of the hut. With a jacket, gloves, and pack on, I felt much more ready to face that first kilometer - it felt good to have made a decision. We set out with another group, and slowly walked away from the hut. Although there were a few strong gusts, everyone stayed upright, and the adrenaline levels settled at an enjoyable level for the most part. We celebrated when we reached the bushline, and began the long descent down what had become a waterfall. Reaching the valley, we quickly discovered that much of the track's upper section had been damaged overnight. ]e had to cross a newly fallen tree over a large tributary, and walk waist deep through another. I realised that had the track or one of the bridges been really damaged, we might have been forced to shelter in the bush or even think about returning to the hut. This just reminded me of the amount of problem solving that can be involved in a tramp!
Once again at Aspiring Hut, you'd have no idea of the conditions just a few kilometers up the valley. We walked out to the car under blue skies and with no shoes on. Pizza and Ben and Jerry's was very much in order back in Wānaka.